Baltimore, Maryland is a city synonymous with crabs, lovely harbor sunsets, and the original king of horror, Edgar Allan Poe. But it’s also a city with an often overlooked history rooted in slavery, the American Revolution, and women’s suffrage. Outside of the historical significance of this “city of neighborhoods,” you will find a destination with endless travel itinerary options for every interest.

Baltimore has become a popular road trip destination for East Coasters who want to explore a new city relatively close to home. It’s only a two and a half hour drive from where I live in New Jersey (Union County), making it a perfect road trip option when the travel itch arrives. And while I enjoyed my visit and loved taking in a city I hadn’t seen since my early teen years, there was a lot that struck me in ways I can only attempt to describe.

Baltimore As A Vacation

Baltimore is a city for the indecisive. With a vast array of options to explore, you don’t have to settle for just one type of vacation. We stayed at the Marriott Harborfront which has a beautiful and clear view of the harbor. Since this was still during the pandemic (we went in early April 2021) the price point for this hotel was especially appealing. The walk to Fell’s Point, Baltimore’s version of Bourbon Street, was about 15 minutes from our hotel. It’s there you’ll find a slew of watering holes and live music. Of course, in Baltimore you get the bonus of a cool harbor breeze and in NOLA you get a humid smack to the face. It’s better to take an Uber or Lyft back from Fell’s Point to your temporary abode as the city, like any big city, can have some interesting {super wasted} characters out at night. But if you’re willing to put in some leg work during the day, the world is your oyster in Baltimore. Within walking distance from our hotel were countless dining options, many right on the harbor, as well as great bars, and some educational and tourist attractions. You can also take a longer walk over to Federal Hill Park to enjoy a view of the city skyline.

Baltimore is a city with many neighborhoods. Much like Manhattan or San Diego, there are a lot of different areas to check out and chances are you won’t have time to see them all while you’re there. We will definitely have to make another trip to see some spots we missed due to limited time. The Inner Harbor is your tourist area with chain restaurants, the National Aquarium, ticketed experiences, and shopping. Fell’s Point has all the bars your booze-swigging heart desires. Baltimore also has several indoor markets such as Cross Street Market, Broadway Market, and Lexington Market (which is where you’ll find the famous Faidley’s crab cakes).

One stop you have to make is to the Guinness Brewery just outside of Baltimore. Once you step through the gates you’re immersed in Guinness culture. The outdoor space has fire pits, plenty of seating, and even a sign telling you how far Dublin is from Baltimore. The tour is more than worth it and is both educational and entertaining. This tour includes a tasting of four beers and once your tour is over you can grab a seat to eat, drink, and enjoy the rest of your stay. It will certainly satisfy your Guinness desires until you can hop a flight to Ireland. It’s an Uber or drive away, but if you enjoy beer and hops history, make the trek.

What I learned quickly is that Baltimore is a foodie city. Yes, there are crabs. Yes, you can have crab cakes and crab soup and crab legs (and I did). But there was also great coffee, perfect oysters, and a delicious and creative breakfast. You can enjoy risotto cake eggs Benedict in the morning, fresh oysters and crab cakes for lunch, and still have time for lamb meatballs and strong cocktails at night. I’ll share my top picks at the end so you can plan your trip!

Baltimore As A Reality Check

Baltimore is a city that has two faces. One is the Inner Harbor area where you can dine in fine establishments, sip on craft cocktails, and hit the tourist attractions. The other is the side of Baltimore that is so often not seen. Its streets are lined with run down buildings, boarded up windows, “No Shoot Zone” signage, and people who have to watch as more condos get built up while their neighborhoods get torn down. There is something jarring and eye opening about driving through a neighborhood and seeing firsthand what one community experiences just minutes after being in what now feels like another world. I’m no stranger to those sights. I grew up in a town with a “good side” and “not so good side.” My parents never tried to shelter me from witnessing things like homelessness or poverty. I have memories of my dad and I chatting it up with homeless men in Elizabeth and my dad giving them money or buying incense from them. But there’s a cognitive dissonance that can happen on a vacation where your mindset is one of getting away from it all, enjoying fun times, and posing for photo ops. Then you’re snapped back to reality and the universe gives you what you need to see. The disparate nature of these two worlds in Baltimore is far from news, which makes it even more disheartening to know that these communities experience such hardships.

I cried. We drove down that street and I watched as liquor stores, boarded up windows, and shuttered businesses imprinted on my brain and I felt my heart sink and I cried. How is this even remotely possible when maybe 10 minutes in the other direction you have new construction condos, valet parking, and $18 cocktails? “Baltimore’s Pennsylvania Avenue was once a thriving cultural center for the city’s Black population during the era of segregation. Famous artists like Billie Holiday, Nat King Cole, and Duke Ellington all arrived in the city to play at Baltimore’s Royal Theater.”-Cristina Maza, “Talk Poverty” (2020). But as the years went on and businesses closed, this neighborhood was left with empty buildings and a lack of opportunity. These realities even have an impact on life expectancy with a contrast of 66 years for those in this neighborhood versus 84 years in the more affluent neighborhood nearby (Baltimore City Health Data, 2013). Segregation policies created these neighborhood divides and Baltimore, much like many other cities where this is true, never recovered from those imaginary lines that were drawn and ultimately produced very real contrasts.

The economic and racial inequality in Baltimore is lived every day by people in the city. A recent article from May 3rd in The Baltimore Sun referenced $670 million in COVID relief aid for Baltimore Those in charge stated that the plan is for it to be distributed in ways that will be “life-changing” and “transformative.” I hope in my heart of hearts that this is exactly what happens. I wish I had the opportunity to speak with locals about everything related to this topic and if anyone from Baltimore happens to read this, I would love the chance to discuss and learn more.

Charming Charm City

None of this is to deter you from visiting Baltimore. I want that to be very, very clear. In fact, I hope that for the right people reading this it encourages you to visit Baltimore and other cities. Anyone who has traveled to a big city knows that it’s far bigger than TripAdvisor lists and the Visit(insert city) Instagram. When I say I like to visit a city and experience it like a local, I don’t just mean going to the local bar or restaurant. I mean being immersed completely and not just focused on the IG-worthy moments. I mean talking to people next to you or the employees of a restaurant and getting a sense of the heartbeat of a city. I mean not ignoring the things you see that might make you feel uncomfortable, sad, or floored.

Travel isn’t meant to be linear. We think of a trip as getting from point A to point B and then from B back to A. Travel is supposed to be a little messy sometimes and it’s intended to give you a gift that you take back home with you (and no, I don’t mean shot glasses and keychains). A quote from Anthony Bourdain that feels especially apropos for this trip is: “Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.”

Aveley Farms

1400 Aliceanna St

Great coffee in an upstairs space. Try the Harbor East Latte!

Cat’s Eye Pub

1730 Thames St (Fell’s Point)

Great little dive bar for beer, shots, and standard mixed drinks

The Elk Room

1010 Fleet Street

Cozy, dark speakeasy with unique cocktails and bites

Faidley’s

Inside Lexington Market

Worth the stop if you have a car or rideshare. Crab cakes are tender; lots of meat, minimal filler, not deep fried

Locust Point (LP) Steamers

1100 East Fort Ave

Various size crabs in an Old Bay blanket, perfect hush puppies

Ministry of Brewing

1900 East Lombard St

Great beer brewed and served inside of an old church!

Ouzo Beach/Ouzo Bay

800 S. Central Ave

Plentiful and flavorful dip trio and lamb meatballs, expansive outdoor bar

Spoons Cafe

24 East Cross St

Biscuits and gravy, risotto cake eggs benedict, brunch all day!

Woodberry Kitchen

2010 Clipper Park Road, Suite 126

Serene and enjoyable outdoor space, creative menu and fresh oysters

Baltimore Than Meets The Eye

Excelente

It’s Been A Year